We recently finished the porch bay ceiling, including crown molding, batten strips, and fresh Haint Blue paint. We’ve been documenting our progress on our Facebook page, but we wanted to provide a more detailed write-up here on the blog.
This is a particularly meaningful project to close out, since it was one of the first trouble areas we tackled when we made the Herzog our home in late 2019. We replaced the flat roof above and the ceiling below, but the finish work took a back seat.
Before digging in, a quick before and after:
Roof
The first step was replacing the flat roof over this bay. The existing flat roof appeared to consist of an older, basic asphalt or rolled-roofing membrane that had reached the end of its useful life and had failed. Our roofing contractor removed the old roofing and decking, sistered the existing roof joists with new lumber to reinforce the framing and improve the slope for better drainage, and then installed the new roof assembly. The replacement was a CertainTeed Flintlastic self-adhered modified-bitumen system using Flintlastic SA PlyBase and SA Cap materials. Purpose-built for flat and low-slope roofs, the new assembly provides a much more durable, weather-resistant waterproofing system.
Ceiling
Next up was replacing the old ceiling. We’ve gotten much better at capturing progress photos over the years. The photos below came from our security camera and show me pulling down the old ceiling.
Here’s a photo showing a sample of the old ceiling against the new wood replacement.
Next came the electrical prep, followed by hanging the new ceiling.
The light fixtures were installed, and we painted the remainder of the porch. The finish work took a back seat. Let’s hop into the time machine and leap from 2020 to 2026. Here’s where we’re starting today:
The goal is to cover up all of the gaps, which calls for crown molding for the perimeter and batten strips for the seams.
When we were having the millwork produced in 2022 for the historic upper cornice, we decided to have enough produced to install as a crown in the porch bay area. This is a hardwood called Sapele and it’s an absolute joy to work with:
Crown
The first step is to cut and dry-fit the crown. When we saw that beautiful Sapele in place, it was tough to paint it. We did wrestle with the idea of trying to keep the natural wood but it simply didn’t work.
Once the crown was dry-fitted, the nail holes were filled. Then the crown was primed, caulked, and painted with two coats.
Batten Strips
Now that the crown is mostly done, the final task is installing the batten strips for the ceiling seams. Similar process to the crown: dry fit, fill holes, sand, caulk, and paint. While we were at it, we cleaned and gave the ceiling a fresh coat of Haint Blue.
Screenshot
Finishing
With everything sealed and painted, the last step was truly satisfying: the final coat of paint.
There we have it. A finished project. Now, just 9,999 more to go!
When we made the Herzog Mansion home in 2019, the south side was in rough shape. One family member took a look and said, “I’d have nightmares.” He was right. I’ve had a few.
Built in the 1980s, this all-wood addition takes a beating from the Missouri sun. Many owners might have replaced it with vinyl, but we’re committed to restoration.
The first step is repairing the rot. We’re replacing larger sections of trim with treated wood and restoring what we can with Abatron WoodEpox. Then comes primer, caulk, and two coats of paint.
One goal of this post is to show that even intimidating wood rot can be repaired. Keeping it from returning requires the right materials, sound techniques, and a little maintenance each spring.
Here’s a peek at what we’re tackling in this blog post:
This corner is a patchwork jigsaw that needs a total replacement.On the left, the wood rot has been removed and is being prepped for patching.A snapshot of time before caulk, primer, etc.The door had seen better days.
But first, a word from our sponsor…
Just kidding, though it sure would be nice! 😅
We’ll talk more about Abatron and why we use its products as we get further into the restoration.
First up is the south-side trim where the porch roof meets the siding. As you can see, it was in rough shape.
The real problem was the flat-roof transition, which had effectively become a waterfall. Every time it rained, water ran down the trim and fed the rot. Before repairing any wood, we installed flashing to redirect the water away from the trim and where it needed to go.
Let’s catalog this as nightmare #1.
Tackling this much wood rot takes planning. Here, we’re replacing the worst sections of trim with treated lumber and patching what can still be saved. Then comes scraping, sanding, priming, caulking, and painting.
And, if we’re being honest, more scraping and sanding, followed by more scraping and sanding. You get the idea.
Notice a slight shininess around the wood rot, that’s the LiquidWoodScraping, sanding, scraping, sanding….Lots of scraping before sandingProgress of patching and primingNew wood matching the previous cuts, ready for caulkSanded all of the siding before caulking and primingSixteen feet up, love this podium ladder!Fully primed and ready for paint!Painting the trim firstMy little helper
I don’t think this side of the house had been painted in 20 years. The siding soaked up paint like a sponge. For now, the priority is getting this side of the house watertight. We’ll tackle the staircase as a separate project.
With the south-side wood rot repaired and the siding painted, we turned our attention to the southeast side.
Let’s catalog this as nightmare #2Treated lumber, I ripped to the same dimensions being replaced
We’re making our way around to the southeast side. Next up are the windows, and there’s plenty of wood rot to address.
These windows and the exhaust vent are good examples of where the Abatron system shines. Instead of replacing the damaged wood entirely, we can stabilize what remains and rebuild the missing sections.
I came across Abatron while researching wood-repair methods used in historic preservation. National Park Service guidance recognizes epoxy consolidants and fillers as useful tools for repairing deteriorated historic wood. According to Abatron, its wood-restoration products have been used at prominent historic sites, including George Washington’s Mount Vernon and Monticello.
The system has two primary products: LiquidWood and WoodEpox. LiquidWood is a penetrating epoxy consolidant that hardens deteriorated wood and creates a stable base for the repair. WoodEpox is a two-part structural epoxy wood filler that contains no solvents. It bonds chemically to the original timber and cures without shrinking, creating a durable repair rather than simply filling the surface. Once cured, it can be shaped, sanded, drilled, and painted.
Step 1: Remove the rotStep 2: Check moisture levels of woodStep 3: Use LiquidWood to stiffen the wood fibersThe LiquidWood “freezes” the wood fiber in order to receive the WoodEpoxyDueling laddersStep 4: WoodEpoxy applied, dried and sandedPatching complete, on to caulking the seamsAfter the WoodEpoxy is sanded, time for primer!Windows primed. Siding prep including pulling old caulk lines and sandingPrimer going up on the sidingSiding fully primedThe cheer squadSpent a lot of time caulking joints and primingLet’s knock out this door before paintingPainting the trim firstFirst coat of white going up
Because the replacement wood is pressure-treated, we’ll give it time to dry before priming and painting.
For now, the southern addition is watertight, the worst of the rot is behind us, and I may finally sleep a little easier. Fewer nightmares, at least.
Next, we’ll finish the new trim and turn our attention to the staircase, including the upper railing. Restoration never really ends. It simply moves on to the next challenge, which we hope is a little less severe.
We remodeled the main guest bathroom off the family room. By far, the toughest interior space we have tackled. As with many bathroom remodels, this project was plagued by surprises and difficult challenges. Let’s get into it.
Here’s a quick snapshot at the before and progress:
Background & Before Photos
This is one of the two first-floor bathrooms. It’s part of the 1980s addition, which, when the house was a B&B, was used by the inkeeper. Today, the bathroom and connected bedroom are part of our primary family living area, right off the family room we remodeled a few years back. Prior to the remodel, definitely the most used bathroom in the entire house.
Of all the spaces in the house, this was in the worst shape. The floor was spent, the vanity was literally falling apart, the veneer on the lighting was peeling off, and there was a hole in the door for some unknown reason. The condition of the bathroom is consistent with how it was when we bought the house, and as it goes, took a back seat to much larger projects.
I’m sure there’s a story here from the previous owner. In a single photo, the motivation for the bathroom reno.
Subfloor Replacement
A closer look at the flooring revealed nothing was sealed. The baseboards, toilet, and beneath the pipe escutcheons were not caulked, allowing water to reach the subfloor.
So, first surprise, the subfloor needs to be replaced. Down to the floor joists we go!
Working through the layers, not liking what we’re findingOh, boy. That’s not good.Removing the toilet flange and starting on the subfloor demoSubfloor removed, next up is blocking, given that the subfloor was original to the additionBlocking required on both the left and right sideTight spaces required crawlspace access to fasten the blockingBlocking done, next up is the new subfloorAdvanTech is heavy! Next up is filling the screw holes and gaps
Renovation
With the subfloor construction behind us, it’s time to rebuild this bathroom. Since this is not a historic space and is part of the 1980s addition, we decided on a design fusion of historic and modern elements. The casing, bullseyes, and plinths are already Victorian-inspired. The clawfoot tub was manufactured somewhere in the 1920s. We chose a new vanity that is a nod to the home.
The twins chose the paint color. They wanted their “Pink Barbie” bathroom, and Alexandria designed around it. The new flooring is porcelain tile in a black and white pattern.
Three very excited little ones to see the paint!Vanity arrived, taking a peek at it in the spaceWe’ve already replaced nine of these MDF laminated window sills, this makes tenBefore installing the casing and rosette bulleyes. There was wainscotting before, requiring some work to reintroduce.Installed, holes filled and caulked, ready to be sanded and two coats of paintTile installed, next up is installing the four plinths and new baseboardsTime to for the plinths and baseboards to go inWith the floor raised, each plinth needed to be cut to sizeThe plinths go in firstDry fit of the new baseboardsPlinths and baseboards installed, caulked and waiting for paintCaulked the baseboards and plinths, along with two coats of paint
Vanity
We chose a Victorian-inspired vanity. Above is a quick mockup of the vanity and porcelain tile.
From an install standpoint, the vanity was tricky. It has claw feet, which, when placed against the baseboard, would create a 1/2 inch gap. We labored over how to solve this.
We did a lot of research, and everything pointed to removing the baseboard behind the vanity, which we did not want to do for various reasons, including: 1) A continuous look, 2) Sealing. Our argument is that the vanity represents “furniture”; why would you disrupt the baseboard to install furniture?
The final decision was to retrofit the clawfeet to provide enough clearance to allow the baseboard to run continuously around the vanity. We accomplished this by carefully removing a 1/2 inch of the back of the clawfoot.
The result is a flush and seamless install. It helps that we bought a baseboard that fits right under the clawfoot’s curve. Planning for the win! By the way, not that anybody is going to be looking at the backside of the feet, but look at that perfect paint match!
Clawfoot Tub
One of the few items to return to the remodeled bathroom was this gorgeous Victorian clawfoot tub. We have seven clawfoot tubs throughout the house, and it’s our understanding that we have the Birk’s to thank for them.
It’s hard to beat the beauty of an original clawfoot tub. The challenge in this space was the configuration. It was set up as a shower, and the curtain dominated the space (blocked a lovely window, too). We decided to do away with the shower curtain, which opens up the space. We replaced the fixture with a beautiful Victorian telephone faucet.
Alexandria took on the project of restoring the tub. The blue was out! We decided to go back to a classic white. We also cleaned up the clawfeet and copper drain pipe.
Summary
Nearly every facet of this bathroom was touched. It’s easier to list what wasn’t replaced: the casing, Victorian bullseye, and plinths, sheetrock, and tub. Everything else was replaced or refreshed, including the subfloor, new flooring, vanity, lighting, faucets, a TOTO toilet, light switches, outlets, etc. A new bathroom!
A common question we get is how many of these projects we do ourselves versus how many we contract out. There are several areas/domains we feel pretty confident in these days: finish carpentry, painting, restoration, plaster work, and electrical. When it was all said and done, the two areas we hired out were: plumbing and tile installation; we did the rest.
Stay tuned for part 2 of this bathroom remodel for all of the final touches! We also have a number of other projects coming to an end that we’re excited to share.
The crown had seen better days and was one of the worse eye sores for the roof. As bad as it appeared, we were still surprised that it was original. During planning, we contemplated replacing it with copper for easier maintenance, given the difficulty of access. Once we learned it was, in fact, original, we shifted our mindset to replicating as close as possible.
Millwork
We spent months working with our team to reproduce the two-piece crown molding. The molding was very weathered. While we could determine the profile, the top and bottom angles were difficult. We worked with Wood Innovations of St. Louis to cut a custom knife to replicate the molding in Sapele lumber.
The crown and the tapered board it sits atopSketch of the new molding and angle
With the crown molding replicated, we turned our sights to replicate the lower board the crown sits atop. This piece is likened to roofing, given that it protrudes out beyond the refuge of the gutter. We chose Western Red Cedar, commonly used for roofing shakes and shingles. The boards were originally tapered by hand. The taper allowed the board to hover above the slate and not apply pressure to the slate during expansion-contraction. I replicated the taper by ripping the nine 16-foot boards vertically on the table saw. As expected, I spent more time creating and testing the jig than pushing the boards through.
oil Paint
We spent several weeks researching the best option for paint. We knew we did not want a typical exterior alkyd paint. The biggest fear is looking up and seeing cracking paint. This exterior wood trim gets some of the worse exposure to the elements. We decided on the Allbäck linseed oil paint system imported by Sage Restoration. We mixed in zinc oxide 20% by volume to protect against mildew.
Since we were starting with new wood, we began by impregnating it with raw linseed oil. From there, we painted four coats of linseed oil paint.
Impregnating the new wood with linseed oil before painting
Installation
There are some subtle differences with the installation, mostly seen with the blocks used for the conductor heads.
Upper Gutter
In the 1980s, the upper roof was built up with a steel standing seam and an aluminum gutter installed. The aluminum gutter was painted red. We replaced the aluminum with new copper gutters. The original drip edge was also covered.
More photos of the new upper gutter with the conductor heads next.
Conductor Heads
The roof originally had four conductor heads, and only one remained on the west side. The sheet metal crew masterfully reproduced the steel conductor heads in copper.
Originally, there were two conductor heads on the west side and one on the north and south sides. Here is an old photo showing the two conductors on the west side:
A photo from 1989 shows both of the conductor heads on the west side.
Here are the new conductor heads installed on the north, south, and west sides:
NorthsideSouthsideWestside
Radius Hips
The original hips were terne-coated steel and had been painted. The team replicated the radius hips using copper.
SE hipNW hipSW hip
Ridge Cap
Behind the parapet is a ridge that connects to the mansard. It turns out this was the source of an on-again-off-again leak. When the team went to replace the very rusted ridge cap, they found a board underneath that was barely hanging on. Originally, there was crown molding that sat right underneath the ridge cap. For better water management and long-term maintenance, we opted to use only copper for the ridge cap and omit the crown.
Conclusion
The next steps are working through the final punch list and removing the scaffolding. Stay tuned for a final recap with before and after photos!
With the architectural gutters brought back to life in Part 2, the next step is laying the slate. The goal is to match the original pattern as closely as possible.
We are using a Vermont S1-grade slate in unfading green, red, and Vermont black. Here is a photo comparing the original slate to the new slate:
Original compared to the new slate.
Slating the roof began on the north side, then the east, west, and finished on the south.
Cutting slate creates a fair amount of dust. We will see even more contrast between the different slate colors with a few good rain showers.
Flashing & Vent
With three chimneys and the parapet, there is a fair amount of flashing and counter flashing. An area that turned out more beautiful than expected was behind the parapet:
Work in progress on flashing behind the parapet.
The vent on the south side is a Lomanco Copper Exhaust Roof Louver (Model 750). Finding model 750 in copper was difficult, but from a maintenance standpoint, we are happy we tracked it down.
Lomanco Copper Exhaust Roof Louver (Model 750)
Most of the metal used throughout this project has been copper. The exceptions are aluminum for the skylight and for a drip edge for the upper roof line.
Barrel Dormers
The roof has three barrel dormers which are terne-coated steel. All three dormers are structurally sound but showing signs of rust. We aim to preserve as much of the original architectural elements as possible. Each dormer was cleaned, a base coat applied, and then several top coats. A Karnak elastomeric system was used, which is comprised of a cleaner, base, and finished coats.
Before photos of the barrel dormers.After photos of the barrel dormers.
Skylight
The west side of the house had an aging skylight. The skylight was added sometime in the 1980s when the third floor was converted to four bedrooms. It is an important skylight, given that it is the emergency exit for the third floor and the only window for one of the four rooms.
Conclusion
With the slate laid, the next step is the upper roof line, radius hips, and parapet ridge cap.
The original gutters were covered, and a k-style gutter hung on the outside.
Proper water management is critical for any building. Back in the 1990s, the original built-in gutters were covered, and k-style gutters hung on the outside. There were two major issues:
The south side was not finished, so water had been rushing over the decaying soffit/fascia/brick for decades.
The k-style gutters were insufficient in moving the volume of water produced by the mansard. The original built-in gutters are much larger, the original architect decided drainage.
Before
Here are photos of each side of the house with the covered gutters in various conditions, with the south side being the worst:
East sideNorth sideSouth sideWest sideMost of the galvanized steel had begun rusting.
The most challenging and concerning aspect of this project was “the south side ruins”. Here are close-up photos showing the state of the inlaid gutters:
Nightmarish
Carpentry
The team had to return to the rafters to bring the south side back to life. The rotted rafters were sistered to provide structure to build the new gutter boxes. Certainly, the biggest unknown going into the project.
We discovered that the outside of the gutter box had been trimmed to provide a slope for drainage of the galvanized metal covering into the k-style gutters. With this, a decorative piece was lost. Not only did the entire parameter of the gutter need to be increased in height, but the decorative trim needed to be added.
Mockup of the molding, ice & water shield, copper cleat, and gutter
Once the parameter framing was replaced, we turned our sights to the crown molding. We worked with Wood Innovations of St. Louis to produce the trim. We went with a hardwood, Sapele, and matched as close as possible to photos from our archives.
Sketch of the profile and the end result
The crown molding serves more than decoration; it creates a structure for the copper cleat and drip edge.
Crown before being painted
Copper Inlaid
Once the carpentry was complete, the focus shifted to the copper inlaid. The first step was installing the copper cleat around the parameter. Each section was custom fabricated to fit and then soldered into place. Every dormer and chimney has a box projecting out, creating a lot of miters. All of the copper used is 20 oz.
Downspouts
With the architectural inlaid gutters brought back to life, all four of the downspouts were replaced with copper. Over the years, the downspouts had been replaced with PVC, and there was a mashup of different brackets.
After
The video starts with the downspouts, showing the new copper gutters surrounding the house, and ends with the new lower cornice with molding.
Photos of the rebuilt inlaid gutters:
How did the scary south side turn out? Here’s a before and after:
Conclusion
In order to protect and preserve this historic home, it all starts with water management. We couldn’t be more thrilled about what is next, the new slate roof!
At the time of writing, the team is halfway through laying the new slate. Here is a preview:
Thank you for reading, Michael and Alexandria Morgan
When we first set eyes on the house in 2019, we knew the roof would need some work. The extant of work would take time to unravel. In this post, we will review the history and details that make up this victorian mansard roof, along with covering the scope of work and timeline.
Here are a collection of photos showing the roof over the years.
Oldest photo of the mansard roof circa 1934A late 80s rare photo before the mansard was paintedPhoto of the painted slate in 1997 before the inlaid gutters coveredThe day we moved in with painted slate and crown fadedA birds-eye view from late winter.
Slate Mansard
We have spent the past two years working with consultants and contractors and researching the best path ahead for the mansard roof.
Delaminating slate on the west side
The Problem
The current slate roof faces three major issues:
The slate was painted in the 1990s, and as a result, many tiles are beginning to delaminate.
Most of the slate is Pennsylvania black, with a life span of about 100 years.
A major valley flashing is beginning to fail, resulting in a leak that was “fixed” only to be undone by the expansion/contraction during the winter.
We hired a consultant in 2020 to assess the slate. Even though the slate had been painted, we were given a life expectancy of around 20 years. The primary issue is the combination of the delaminating slate and the failing flashing. Exploring the cost of fixing a major valley became the motivator for looking at the whole mansard roof.
The Solution
Some of the black and green slate that recently arrived.
We are replacing the slate with Vermont S1 grade slate, which has a life span of up to 200 years. We are closely matching the same “floral” pattern with a combination of black, green, and red slate tiles. All flashing is being replaced with 20-ounce copper, and the original inlaid gutters are being brought back to life.
Sorry, honey, your dream kitchen will need to wait.
– A brave husband named Michael
While the slate makes up most of what you see on the mansard roof, there is a lot of water management from restoring the built-in gutters, copper flashing, and dormers.
Architectural Built-in Gutters
Restoring the original built-in gutters is nearly equal in scope and complexity to replacing the slate. In the 1990s, the original built-in gutters were covered with galvanized steel, and aluminum k-style gutters were hung. We are going back to the original built-in gutters with 20-ounce copper.
The k-style gutter hung on the outside of the covered original built-in gutter.The rusting covered built-in gutters with the k-style hung on the outside.
Dormers
Most of the metal work on the house is terne-coated steel. Three barrel dormers need restoration. Terne-coated steel requires painting and can show signs of rust in as little as a year1. To preserve the architectural detail, the rust will be cleaned up, and a special coating applied.
An angle showing two of the barrel dormers.
Crown
The upper crown has seen better days. One of the first items is extracting a sample of the crown and sending it to our millwork company in St. Louis for reproduction. We are working with the same millwork company that has reproduced the interior casing seen in the library restoration.
The crown below the ridge cap is at the end of life.
Upper Gutters
When the flat roof above the mansard was installed in the 1990s, a k-style gutter was hung and painted red. We are replacing the aluminum gutter with copper, which will sit right above the new crown. Custom copper scupper boxes are being fabricated with 3-inch downspouts leading to the inlaid gutter.
Photo of the mansard roof in 1989 with original scupper boxes before the roof was painted.
Skylight
The backside of the mansard features a skylight door. It is the only window for one of the third-floor bedrooms and acts as an emergency exit. We are replacing the skylight door with a custom-ordered replacement from Velux coming from Denmark.
Radius Hip / Ridge
As mentioned, most of the metal is terne-coated steel. The radius hips and the ridge behind the front parapet will be replaced with copper.
Radius hipThe ridge behind the front parapet
Soffit & Fascia
The south-facing side of the house needs the most work. The number one issue was when the gutter system was hung in the 1990s; it was not continued all the way around. As a result, water has been running over the fascia and brick for decades. We are going to solve this problem by rebuilding the inlaid gutter. From there, we can replace the soffit and fascia. At a later point, we plan on repointing this side of the house.
Timeline
Below is an overview of where we are at the time of writing.
We finalized the construction plan in February. The goal was to start work in late spring.
The Vermont slate is ordered in March.
In late March, we learned there was a delay for the Vermont Black due to slowdowns at the quarry. Either we go with a Vermont Gray Black or wait an additional ten weeks for the Vermont Black. We chose to wait for the black, which closely matches what is original to the roof. Waiting for the black slate pushed the timeline from late spring into early summer.
The slate arrived in St. Louis in May. We are waiting on the copper and for the team to free up from their current project.
Scaffolding is erected the week of July 4th. First up is removing the existing roof, shoring up the decking for underlayment, and beginning work on the inlaid gutters.
The slate was clipped at the quarryThe red slate is the inside of the flower
Thank you for reading, Michael and Alexandria Morgan
This year has been the most transformative in terms of turning a house used as a B&B for decades back into its original intended purpose, a family home.
A full write-up of our renovation of the family room is here.
This year, a major undertaking was renovating this 1980s addition, which served as the community room for the B&B.
BeforeAfterThe exit sign, fire alarm, elevated entry floor, and cold lighting are gone.
Mars helping remove nine window sills.
Library
We made strides this year in the library. Be sure to check out our latest update here.
We end the year having refinished the original floor and recreating the ornate doorway into the Men’s parlor.
Porch
Last year we began the process of painting the porch. We continued this year by painting and replacing all of the exterior screens.
We have also continued working on the main french doors.
BeforeAfter
In the spring, we added porch gates for an increasingly curious toddler.
Men’s Parlor
As we get closer to finishing the library, we are preparing to tackle one of our favorite spaces in the house, the Men’s parlor. When we first moved in, it was still configured to be the game room for the B&B with a pool table and poker table.
Around the time we refinished the library floor, we moved the pool table from the Men’s parlor into the basement. The floors in the Men’s parlor are in good shape since there was a large carpet covering most of the heavy foot traffic.
Windows
One of the most important features of a historic building is its windows. Windows are like eyes for your home. All of the windows in the house (except the three in the mansard roof) are wood. Before we moved in, they had begun chipping. We have been in the process of restoring every window. We are happy to say we are now 20 windows in of what feels like countless.
I’ve learned that it’s a labor of love carefully scraping, sanding, sealing, reglazing, and painting these windows. I have chosen to take this on because this will be needed every 5-10 years.
Conclusion
We feel truly blessed and surrounded by community. On December 1st, we welcomed our twin girls into the world. The outpour of love and fellowship has been truly overwhelming. We chose Hermann to raise a family and restore a historic building; we couldn’t be happier with that choice.
We are excited for 2022 and continuing the restoration of this home. Stay tuned!
Be sure to check out Part 1 and Part 2 of the library restoration.
The restoration of the library continues with a focus on refinishing the floor and recreating the doorway to the Men’s parlor.
Flooring
The floor was quite literally a jigsaw puzzle for such a compact room. We were fortunate enough to get our hands on antique donor wood, which we reworked into the disrupted areas due to the previous kitchen.
Before tackling the flooringSometimes you have to go backward to move forward.Working in antique donor boardsReady for stain and polyurethane
Carpentry
We were surprised in Part 2 to discover a doorway to the Men’s parlor. The hard part was bringing back the original plinths, casing, rosettes, baseboards and more. We spent quite a bit of time scouring for artifacts looking for the originals in the basement. At times we got lucky, such as having the original door that fits like a glove. We also had several plinths and rosettes. When it came to the casing, we were not so lucky. We ended up having to recreate all of the casing on both sides of the doors.
OriginalReproducedOriginal casing compared to the reproduced.Original used as the source to turn two new rosettes.Casing, rosettes, plinths, and baseboards installed.A little bit of planing and the door is a perfect fit.Recreating the transom was a project in itself.Both the library and Men’s Parlor have faux transformsThe other side of the doorway
Recap
It is fun to look back on how much this space has changed, from a second B&B kitchen to being carefully restored to a library. We’re now in the home stretch of finishing this room! Next up is paint.
Kitchen in 2019Kitchen removal in early 2020Floor removal in summer 2020Restoration of trim and floor prep in 2021Before adding casing to parlor doorBaseboards, casing and refinished flooring in 2021
Our largest interior project we have taken on yet. The family room was added in the 1980s and is around 900 square feet. It was used as the reception and breakfast space for the B&B. As a result, it was by far the most in need of a refreshing. Since it’s our primary living room, it also sees the most action. Since this space was an addition, it is the only space we plan on using modern design.
When we moved in, this room was still very much a B&B community room. There was a reception desk, three dining tables, and a sitting area. Over our first year, this space naturally turned into our family room–especially an ideal space for a toddler.
The original community room for the bed and breakfast.
Casing, Aprons & Sills
Before embarking on the prep work for painting, we took inventory of the windows. The room has nine windows total and needs updates. The window aprons that were originally chosen were too thick and protruded beyond the casing. The window sills were laminated MDF with a marble pattern.
The window sills were laminated MDF and the window apron protruded beyond the casing.
Needless to say, everything about this configuration needed to change. We fabricated custom window sills that better matched the style of the windows and replaced the window aprons with the proper thickness.
Painting
The room has nine windows, and we quickly learned about a winter tradition previously common, taping up over the windows. We spent more time removing goo from the casing and windows than painting.
A mockup of the paint selection and new window apron, including wet paint.BeforeAfter
Double Doors
The main entry doors into the room has seen a lot of action over the years.
BeforeAfter
Flooring
The biggest part of this project was the floors. When you first entered the room, there was an elevated floor, and the remainder of the room was carpeted. It turns out that the commercial carpet is original to when the room was added. We knew we wanted to do away with the elevated entry, but we wrestled choosing the right flooring. Our goal has been hardwood throughout, but this is the main space for toddlers and a large dog. We ordered countless samples of everything under the sun, from engineered to rigid core. It’s amazing how few passed the “toddler-proof” test.
The elevated entry floor and very worn carpet.After removing the entry floor, we discovered there was originally parquet flooring.Baseboards are up and numbered; next is removing the carpet.The mastic from the 1980s carpet was a project itself.Entry floor and carpet removed, next is prepping the subfloor.The Varathane ezV made short order of the mastic.Sanding the perimeterTwo coats on the plinth blocks, base and trim.The floor was mostly level.Prep is done and ready to put down the new floor.Halfway doneDueling sawsThe raised entry required shimming the plinths and base.
Lighting
There were three ceiling fans, likely original from the 1980s. We started with the main entry, replacing the fan with a 16-light chandelier.
There were eight outlets near the ceiling that we changed out for sconces. We replaced the other two fans with 12-light chandeliers.
Before moving in furniture, our little guy loved the extra space.
Before & After
Conclusion
Renovating the family room is a project of projects, and we are happy it’s nearly done. Just in time, too, the twins are due in December!